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Haedong Yonggungsa Water Temple

This is a Busan Ex-Pat City Guide post. Check out the rest of my list here.

It seems unlikely that I am the first foreigner teaching in Busan to weep over the end of beach season, but that doesn’t mean it’s any easier to let it go. “How will I possibly spend weekends? Where will I get my stunning views of the water now?”

Eventually, these questions began to seem pretty trivial given the beautiful landscape of Busan, and even more trivial when I Googled “the best attractions Busan has to offer” and came across the beautiful Haedong Yonggungsa Water Temple, located on the East Sea.

After a strenuous hike up Jangsan Mountain and (another) night out in KSU the day and night before, Matt and I met up with Mary bright and early Sunday morning at Haeundae Station and caught the bus toward the temple. This was actually my first time taking a bus in Busan, and quite possibly, my last. The stops are reliable enough, but the driver’s ability to man the wheel were slightly reminiscent of Leslie Mann in The 40 Year Old Virgin, and reified that I am a subway/taxi person.

After approximately a 25 minute bus ride, we were let off in an oddly suburban area; however, a large granite stone with “Haedong Yonggungsa Temple” let us know that we were in the right place. After a short 5 minute walk, we approached a tiny market. Tempting aromas and the sound of shrill Korean floated around the tight space, as tourists stuffed their faces and bartered for tiny trinkets.

Shortly past the busy market were the expected and the unexpected: a line of life-size statues of the 12 zodiac signs with kneeling practitioners of Buddhism offering prayers represented the former; a towering ivory pagoda established for the purpose of “traffic safety prayers” represented the latter.

Like the inquisitive tourists/goats we are, Matt, Mary, and I followed a long line of people down a seemingly never-ending flight of stairs towards the rocky coast of the East Sea. Note: Upon researching further for the purposes of this blog, I learned that there were in fact exactly 108 steps, a sacred and recurring number in Buddhism. As we worked our way down the steps at a glacial pace, we caught a quick glimpse of the striking coastline, which illustrated exactly why this temple is a top tourist destination in Busan. The water is an absurd, almost unimaginable shade of cerulean, made even more pristine in juxtaposition to the craggy rocks.

One way to take your mind off the long line is a coin launching bridge called the Lucky coin divination. Simply take a coin from your pocket and try to launch it into the basins below. Be careful not to launch your smartphone into the gorge below like the foolish gentleman just out of frame in the picture above.

The intricately designed temple and various shrines at Haedong Yonggungsa are stunning, especially to those unfamiliar with Buddhist temple architecture. Other highlights include a pair of life-size golden pigs, and two giant golden statues of Buddha, including a Movember themed one that I will be modeling my lip sweater after this year.

Additionally, there is a nice, albeit somewhat informal path that leads to the Busan Fisheries Science Museum and allows you to walk around the coast of Busan. According to the maps, this hike around the seawall can take approximately 10h. Note: The girls and I attempted this hike northward last weekend and it is somewhat haphazard. Try a mountain trail instead.

Overall, the Haedong Yonggungsa Water Temple is one of the most awe-inspiring sites I’ve visited so far in Busan. I have every intention to visit again. During Buddha’s birthday. With a professional camera. At sunset. How’s that for wanderlust?

Directions
To get to the Haedong Yonggungsa Water Temple, take Line 2 (green line) on the Busan Subway to Haeundae (stop 203). Go out exit 1 and take Bus 181 until you get to Yonggungsa Temple (located on the right side). The temple is 5 minute walk from the bus stop. Admission is free, but bring money for the market!

Entrance to the temple

Entrance to the temple

Lucky Coin Divination

Lucky Coin Divination

Pretty temple

Pretty temple

Buddha and his mo

Buddha and his mo

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Traffic Safety Prayer Pagoda

Traffic Safety Prayer Pagoda

My derps and I

My derps and I

Dudley the Dragon (named by me)

Dudley the Dragon (named by me)