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Changseondong Meokja Golmok (Busan’s “Let’s Eat” Alley)

This is a Busan Ex-Pat City Guide post. Check out the rest of my list here.

Why just see the world when you can eat it, too?

This is a question I ask myself while travelling for two reasons. First, because I believe that one can go to all of the temples, towers, gardens, parks, beaches, and monuments and still not necessarily experience anything culturally authentic. These places, while beautiful, are often just snapshots. I believe you have to engage yourself in the culture and customs of a different country, and food sampling is a pretty solid way to do so. The second reason is that I’m never not thinking about food. I could almost literally “eat the world” myself.

I’m lucky to have friends who share this same philosophy. We can journey, trek, and voyage to see all of the things, refuel by eating all of the things, and then continue on our merry sightseeing ways. We employ this approach frequently, as was the case earlier this month when Steph and I found ourselves exploring the Nampo area for Changseondong Meokja Golmok (먹자골목), otherwise known as Busan’s “Let’s Eat” Alley.

The concept is simple and efficient: walk through the red archway into the alley, find an appealing vendor, park your keister on the brightly coloured stools, and point to the bowl you want. There is no time to waste in Changseondong. There is none of the usual “please wait for your server to seat you”, or disappointment when your meal arrives and doesn’t come close to matching the photo in the menu. What you see is what you get.

Each stall is run by an elderly Korean woman, lovingly known as an “ajumma”, who prepares your meal for you. With regard to the actual meals, there is a variety of traditional Korean dishes available, including tteokbokki (Korean rice cake), pajeon (green onion pancake), kimbap, and japchae (sweet potato noodles). The cost of each dish is incredibly cheap, ranging from ₩2,000 to ₩5,000 (approximately $2 to $5CAD).

Steph and I each ordered a bowl of japchae to start. We mixed the sweet potato noodles in with the carrots, onions, spinach, and mushrooms, as we befriended the lovely ajumma at the stall. Afterwards, Steph opted for a plate of kimbap, while I decided to “carb-o-load” and ordered a second bowl of noodles, known as baekmyeon (white buckwheat noodles)

Steph and I departed the “Let’s Eat” Alley with full stomachs and full wallets, having only spent ₩4,000 each. If you’re trying to see and eat Busan, Nampo’s “Let’s Eat” Alley is a great place to start.

Directions
To get to Changseondong Meokja Golmok, take the Orange Line on the Busan Subway (Line 1) to Nampo-dong Station (stop 111). Take exit 7, and take your first left. Continue down this road, until you reach Gwangbokro Street (the third street) and turn right. The “Let’s Eat” Alley will be on your left and is between a pharmacy and a Coffee Bean. The entrance to the alley has a red and white archway.